Andreādamo Spring 2023

Milan’s Andrea Adamo is among a new clutch of European designers for whom clothes can never be too formfitting or revealing, wrapping the body with strips and cords of fabric, or clinging knits with cutouts galore.

He shredded scores of fabrics for spring, which left slivers of flesh flashing under a lattice of crystal chains or rough yarns. He credited these “unfinished” looks to a floating stitch technique.

“Between surfer and mermaid,” Adamo declared backstage, identifying Spanish beach Famara — prized for its stunning sunsets and big waves — as a main reference, the former evoked on slinky jersey outfits.

At the foot of a modern office building, his models stomped through mostly drained reflecting pools, their radical platform sandals not quite high enough to keep their shredded bell-bottoms and leather cargo leggings dry.

Adamo seems to be as excited as everyone in fashion about the forthcoming live-action version of Disney’s “The Little Mermaid,” which is rated G, unlike Adamo’s sexed-up collection.

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